Eggs in Purgatory May Offer a Valuable Ecumenical Lesson to the Vatican

Roman Catholic Cardinals are now meeting in Italy to begin selecting a new pope. This esteemed group of gentlemen, for there is not a woman among them, will face many unsolved problems in the Church.

Chief among the difficult issues facing the next Holy Father will be the sexual abuse of children by priests, the noncompliance of the Vatican Bank with international monetary regulations, the stabilization of relationships with Islamic spiritual leaders, the recognition of women’s universal rights as well as massive internal security leaks to name only a few of the troubling topics.

It is the hope of many that the Cardinals’ papal choice will open the windows of the Vatican to the 21st Century, embracing as a result, both change and diversity – just like the Italian dish “Uova al Purgatorio”, also known as “Eggs in Purgatory”.

The heritage of this dish begins in Spain and North Africa where both Moorish and Jewish cooks called the dish “shakahouka”.

These innovative kitchen masters were among the first in the Old World to adopt the tomatoes, paprika, and chili peppers brought back from the New World by Spanish explorers. They also quickly added the eggplant -- which was brought from India by Portuguese merchants.

But sadly, many other individuals did not share their creativity, their ability to accept the new and explore its possible applications. Indeed, many felt that these new foods, all of which are contained in “Eggs in Purgatory”, were “vulgar and rustic” foods – unworthy of the upper classes.

As a result, these new culinary delights were enjoyed only by the lower classes, into which both Jews and Arabs had been forced by royal degrees as early as the 16^th century in both Spain and Italy.

Yet slowly over time tastes changed. By 1891 the Italian Pellegrino Artusi wrote, “Forty years ago, one hardly saw a tomato, an eggplant or fennel in the markets of Florence. They were once considered vile and foreign.”

Thankfully things have changed as proven by such now popular dishes as “Eggs in Purgatory.” Let us hope that the red robed Princes of the Church are not lost in a ‘purgatory’ of their own creation, frozen in tradition, unable to see the new ’ingredients’ offered by the 21^st Century – a century crying for change and ready for a broader, richer, more inclusive spiritual menu.

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013

Hollywood, Brownies and the Oscars

Soon the bright spotlights of Hollywood will shine high in the sky and the red carpet will be rolled out below. Cinematic star after star will walk that carpet and then take their seat, hoping that the T.V. cameras will focus on them as the announcer calls their name to come and claim a coveted Oscar.

Yet there are stars who have not sought the limelight or the Award. Some actors, such as Marlon Brando, have even chosen not to attend the Academy Ceremonies to avoid having to accept their award in person.

Another such ceremony-shy celebrity was Katharine (or Kate) Hepburn.  Born into a socially aware New England family, she was not an actress who needed to be discovered, hopefully drinking sodas at Schwab's Drug Store lunch counter.

For you see, her mother, also named Katharine, was a strong willed feminist and a national known suffragist. Along with Margaret Sanger, she co-founded the organization that would become Planned Parenthood.

Her efforts were matched by her husband, Thomas Hepburn, who as a doctor also fought for the right of women to obtain safe and complete health care.

This was not, as you might guess, a household that produced passive Victorian daughters (or actresses). At every meal the six Hepburn children were encouraged by their parents to speak freely and debate any topic of interest. And while current events and individual sporting activities were often the subjects of dinner discussions, there was one topic and dessert that was enjoyed by all – brownies.

But not just any brownies - the brownies of Bertha Palmer, owner of Chicago’s Palmer House Hotel and female extra ordinary.

Like the senior Katharine, Bertha was an early advocate of women’s rights – both in the doctor’s office and at the ballot box. Her active support was vital to the success of the Women’s Building at the Columbian Exposition, right down the boxed lunches served there. 

Palmer knew, as many of the early American feminists did, that mutual conversation and supportive fellowship was critical to the success of a national suffrage movement. If the women gathered at the Fair’s Pavilion could be prompted to linger over luncheon, common ground through conversation could be found.

But how? What better than a great new dessert – one too good to put down (but not too messy to enjoy). And that was the task that Bertha Palmer set for her skilled pastry chefs at the Palmer House.

Their resulting creation was the brownie (see recipe below).  It was that same brownie that Kate’s mother served proudly to her progressive family, along with the story of its origin and purpose. These were the same brownies that Kate would later make for Hollywood friends as she passionately explained why talent and truth matters so much more than mere money or annual awards.

Let’s hope the Academy remembers this culinary lesson wrapped in sweet chocolate as they honor those who stand in the bright lights of fame brownies,  on rich red carpets beneath California's starry skies.

PALMER HOUSE BROWNIES (With Many Thanks to Feminism and Hollywood)

INGREDIENTS

• 1lb 2 oz Semisweet Chocolate
• 1 lb Butter
• 1lb 8oz Granulated Sugar
• 8 oz Cake Flour (King Arthur)
• 1 tbsp Baking Powder
• 4 Whole Eggs
• 1 lb Crushed Walnuts
• 1 cup Water
• 1 cup Apricot Preserves
• 1 tsp Unflavored Gelatin

DIRECTIONS

1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees.
2. In a double boiler, melt chocolate with butter.
3. Mix sugar, flour and baking powder in separate mixing bowl,
4. Add chocolate butter mixture and mix for 4-5 minutes.
5. Add eggs.
6. Pour onto 9-inch by 12-inch baking sheet.
7. Sprinkle walnuts on top of batter and press down slightly into mixture.
8. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until batter has risen ¼ inch and the edges are crisp.
9. Remove and cool for 30 minutes.
10. In a saucepan, heat and bring to a boil for 2 minutes the water, apricot preserves and gelatin.
11. Brush apricot glaze over cooled brownies with pastry brush.

Enjoy!

Your Culinary World copyright Ana Kinkaid/Peter Schlagel 2013